DUBAI: We take a closer look at homegrown highlights from the capital’s catwalks this Riyadh Fashion Week.
Tima Abid
The Saudi designer’s Fall 2025 Couture collection relied heavily on a black color palette, reflecting the recent loss of her mother. Models were shrouded in black capes, hoods and billowing gowns, with exaggerated silhouettes creating a sense of drama.
In show notes, Abid said the inspiration behind the collection “lies in the chaos that surrounds us, a reflection of how human emotions and thoughts can be transformed into art, fabric, and form.”
Crystals, lace and textured fabric choices also worked to add a layer of interest to the line, with sober shades of burgundy making an appearance on the runway as a counterpoint to the otherwise all-black collection.
Crystals, lace and textured fabric choices worked to add a layer of interest to the line. (Supplied)
Atelier Hekayat
The Saudi label — founded by sisters Alia and Abeer Oraif — presented a line titled “A Ticket to the Theater,” marked by suitably head-turning prints and silhouettes. Inspired by “the transformative magic of performance,” according to show notes, the collection unfolded with A-line capes, poufy silhouettes, bold cuts, and intricate embellishments.
“This collection is a tribute to every soul who has ever stood behind the curtain,” the pair told Arab News in a joint statement. “The silent heroes who made us laugh, cry, and believe in magic.”
Harlequin prints were toned down and presented in tan-and-black to suit modern tastes, while fabrics printed with animated female forms added a touch of whimsy to the line that also boasted a ruffled showman-worthy cape in bright red.
“We wanted to celebrate the moment a woman embraces herself with love and grace,” the sisters explained. “It’s a story of self-love and confidence reborn under the spotlight.”
Harlequin prints were toned down and presented in tan-and-black to suit modern tastes. (Supplied)
Abadia
The label’s latest offering featured voluminous soft silhouettes, sophisticated layering, and rich textiles including silk, velvet, and wool in a warm palette of browns, creams, and golds with an on-trend touch of burgundy. Creative head Shahd Al-Shehail drew inspiration from the legacy of pearl diving communities in Saudi Arabia, paying tribute to the resilience of the women who held their families together during the men’s long absences at sea.
“It is inspired by my grandfather’s story when he was young and ventured into the sea to mark his coming of age … it reminded me of what it means to choose courage over comfort; to surrender, and to embrace the unknown,” Al-Shehail told Arab News.
The label’s latest offering featured voluminous soft silhouettes, sophisticated layering, and rich textiles. (Supplied)
Leem
The Saudi label’s Fall 2025 showcase was an exercise in blending the Kingdom’s heritage with contemporary design notes. European couture from the 1970s was used as inspiration and seamlessly melded with traditional Saudi attire, resulting in a collection of flowing bisht-style overlays and heritage-inspired farwas for the cooler months.
The brand also offered up business attire in the form of separates and loose fitting dresses in ruffled chiffon.
Psychedelic color-melting techniques were applied to long dresses with leg-of-mutton sleeves — updated with cleaner, less fussy lines. The show notes stated: “The Saudi woman is global, discerning, and self-assured … she understands style but values practicality and purpose.”
Psychedelic color-melting techniques were applied to long dresses with leg-of-mutton sleeves. (Supplied)
Waad Aloqaili
Hand-crafted elements elevated the Saudi designer’s showcase, with intricate embroidery and mother-of-pearl laminate used to stunning effect. Titled “YAMAL,” the collection paid tribute to Saudi Arabia’s nautical landscapes with pearls, crystals, beading and chiffon used to mimic the “serene rhythm of the Saudi sea.”
One standout figure-hugging gown boasted a bodice sculpted from hand-crafted mother-of-pearl laminate refined through sanding and sealed with natural wax. Vertical strands of pearls and crystals hung from the waist, with the designer opting not to fasten the delicate ropes to the flowing fabric underneath in order to allow for fluid movement.
Accessories also played a role in paying tribute to the Kingdom’s past, with a pair of shouder-grazing gold earrings designed to look like the traditional scale once used to weigh natural pearls. A headpiece created from gold, natural mother-of-pearl and pearls was designed to mirror the hammah worn by Najd women.
Hand-crafted elements elevated the Saudi designer’s showcase, with intricate embroidery and mother-of-pearl laminate used to stunning effect. (Supplied)
Razan Alazzouni
Having dressed Stateside celebrities including Kendall Jenner, Emma Roberts, and Elizabeth Banks, Alazzouni’s show at Riyadh Fashion Week was her first runway presentation in her home country. Alazzouni also took inspiration from pearl diving and its storied history in the Gulf, but shied away from using pearls directly in her work, instead choosing to employ pearl-diving-related visuals as a motif throughout the collection.
Fishing ropes, the swells of underwater formations and coral were depicted through embroidery woven onto crop tops, dresses and blouses. The collection did not stray too far into nautical territory, however, with the designer opting for a color palette of cream, gold and black with the odd touch of blue.
Fishing ropes, the swells of underwater formations and coral were depicted through embroidery woven onto crop tops, dresses and blouses. (Supplied)
Mirai
The label’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection “ALMOSTAGBAL” used design references from Saudi Arabia and Japan — specifically Tokyo’s urban fashion. The collection was a welcome look at Saudi street style dressing at an otherwise couture-heavy event.
Cropped blazers, some with Nehru collars, kept things playful. The color palette — moss greens, shades of black and sharp white — was pared down enough that design quirks carried the collection and kept things visually engaging. Tiny triangular embroidery along pocket openings and collar edges harkened back to traditional Najdi architecture, while large buttons boasted intricate patterns in a somewhat unexpected detail for such an urban collection.
The color palette — moss greens, shades of black and sharp white — was pared down enough that design quirks carried the collection. (Supplied)
HINDAMME
The Saudi label showcased its “Hejaz” collection, paying tribute to the Kingdom’s western province. Creative head Mohammed Khoja offered up monochrome full-length dresses, knit cardigans, and silk button-downs emblazoned with Arabic print in a circular formation that picked up on design cues from his 2024 “Petroglyphs Collection.”
“Hejaz” stayed true to the brand’s ethos of contemporary, luxury, ready-to-wear pieces inspired by the concept of East-meets-West, featuring bold scarlet and hot pink shades, textured oversized coats in tan and brown, and boxy jackets that walked the line between nations.
The Saudi label showcased its “Hejaz” collection, paying tribute to the Kingdom’s western province. (Supplied)
