KRAKOW: There’s something quietly magical about Krakow in autumn. The Polish city moves to its own rhythm as orange and yellow leaves fall like nature’s confetti. It isn’t loud or crunchy; it’s subtle, elegant and playful all at once.
In a creaky, candlelit room in Krakow’s Old Town, we heard a pianist playing some of the delicate yet stormy compositions of Chopin — Poland’s most revered composer. It felt both calming and invigorating, a quiet reset. (Tip: arriving just a few minutes late — we got lost admiring the quaint shops along the way — and paying in cash unknowingly earned us a modest discount.)
Krakow is as much about taste as it is about sound. You could eat your weight in delicious pierogi; those soft, delicate dumplings gathered at the top, filled with comforting goodies such as potato, cheese, shredded cabbage, or meat, and topped with a sprinkling of fried onions.
Inside the Wieliczka Salt Mine. (Shutterstock)
We also indulged in Oscypek z grilla — grilled smoked sheep’s cheese, a traditional delicacy from Poland’s Tatra Mountains, often served with cranberry or cherry sauce. It was creamy, tart, and lightly charred, offering the perfect balance. Polish cuisine in general is hearty and unpretentious; you can find great tomato soup, for example, and it’s well worth trying the so-called Polish bagel — obwarzanek krakowski — a braided, ring-shaped bread that’s boiled before baking and typically sprinkled with poppy seeds, sesame, or salt.
Speaking of salt, a short drive from the Old Town is the labyrinthine wonder of the Wieliczka Salt Mine. Descending into its depths, each space is more elaborate than the last. Salt sculptures and underground lakes create a surreal beauty — a subterranean cathedral said to be the largest of its kind and carved entirely from salt. Much to our relief, after hours of walking, our return to the surface was via a tiny elevator that zipped up in seconds.
The salted chocolate available at the mine was some of the best I’ve ever tasted, and I later indulged in a soak with bath salts to soothe my aching feet.
Pierogi - a must-try Polish dish. (Shutterstock)
Salt shakers are popular gifts here — symbols of hospitality and preservation. But Poland is also famed for its hand-painted pottery, amber jewelry from the Baltic coast, intricate woodwork, and colorful folk art bursting with symbolism. I also admired their delicate scarves adorned with flowers. And their cute dolls.
Architecturally, Krakow is a lesson in continuity and preservation; its lively squares and cozy spaces are equally inviting and immersive. Gothic spires rise beside Baroque façades, while Renaissance courtyards whisper of centuries of civic pride.
Be sure to stop by Wawel Castle—even if you skip the paid exhibits. The gardens alone are worth a visit, and the gift shop offers a fine selection of local crafts. Legend has it that the Wawel Dragon once terrorized Krakow from a cave beneath Wawel Hill, devouring livestock and terrifying villagers. Many knights tried to defeat it but failed, until a clever shoemaker fed it a sheep stuffed with sulfur, making it so thirsty that it drank from the Vistula River until it burst. Today, a dragon statue near the castle occasionally breathes fire, delighting passersby.
Local craftsmen and women still prosper here. I couldn’t resist a pair of handmade shoes — comfortable, stylish and affordable. While there may be no dragon-slaying shoemakers around today, the city itself feels subtly enchanted, preserved just enough to keep the magic alive in each step.
